Bakan – Preah Khan Kampong Svay

The Bakan, also known as Preah Khan Kampong Svay, is one of the largest and most historically significant temple complexes of the Angkorian era. Located in Ta Siang Village, Ronakse Commune, Sangkum Thmei District, it lies about 105 kilometers southwest of Preah Vihear town and 75 kilometers north of Kampong Thom town near Stoung, along National Route 6.

Set on a vast plain once used for royal ceremonies, the complex is enclosed by two massive ramparts. Within these walls stand several smaller temples, including Neang Peou and Dangkao Baodos, while beyond the enclosure lie additional sanctuaries such as Preah Damrei, Preah Thkol, Ta Prohm, Muk Buon, and Preah Stung. Together, they form a sprawling ceremonial and religious hub that rivals some of Angkor’s greatest sites.

Although much of the central sanctuary has collapsed into mounds of rubble, the ruins remain awe-inspiring. Looting in 2003 severely damaged the temple, with thieves destroying parts of the sanctuary and stealing numerous Apsara and Buddha statues. Yet despite its scars, the site still radiates a strong spiritual atmosphere. The extensive use of laterite stone, which glows warmly in the sunlight, enhances its dramatic presence.

Cultural & Historical Significance

Royal and Religious Role

The Bakan likely served as both a royal palace and a spiritual sanctuary. Its architectural features closely resemble the Bayon and Ta Prohm at Angkor, suggesting that King Jayavarman VII may have once taken refuge here before ascending to the throne in 1181 AD. This dual role underscores its importance as a place where political power and religious devotion were intertwined.

Military Legend of Jey Srei

Local tradition connects the site with a legendary figure named Jey Srei. According to legend, during the Cham occupation of Angkor, Jey Srei fled to the Champa Kingdom (in present-day central Vietnam), where he studied advanced military strategies. Fourteen years later, he returned to Cambodia and established an iron foundry at the Bakan. From here, he forged weapons, trained an army in the surrounding jungles, and launched a campaign that ultimately freed Angkor from Cham control.

Etymology of Jey Srei

The name “Jey Srei” itself carries symbolic meaning. “Jey” translates as “victory and successor,” while “Srei” refers to “happiness, harmony, and good fortune.” Later interpretations connected Jey Srei with Jayavarman VII, the great warrior-king who restored Cambodia’s power and is celebrated as one of the nation’s most revered rulers.

Angkor’s Second Capital

Some scholars, including Kit Chanthy of the Preah Vihear Tourism Department, have suggested that the Bakan may have functioned as the second capital of the Khmer Empire during Jayavarman VII’s reign. Archaeological evidence indicates that construction began under Suryavarman I (1002–1050) and was completed under Jayavarman VII in the late 12th to early 13th century. If true, this would further elevate the site’s importance as a political and spiritual stronghold.

Legacy and Symbolism

Today, the Bakan remains a powerful symbol of Cambodia’s resilience and heritage. Despite centuries of decline, looting, and neglect, its ruins continue to inspire awe. The site offers visitors a rare glimpse into the grandeur of Khmer architecture, the complexities of its military history, and the enduring spirit of the Cambodian people. For historians and archaeologists, it provides invaluable insight into the transitional period between Angkor’s expansion and consolidation under Jayavarman VII.